Spring brought construction work to Union Square this year. On Greenmarket days, the farm stands are scattered into a confusing and unfamiliar pattern. Even in this bewildering jumble of white tents, it’s easy to spot Yuno’s Farm. The stand is teeming with shoppers who know where to find some of the best naturally grown vegetables in New York.

In early June I took the train to Bordentown, NJ to visit the farm. Nevia picked me up at the station, and we spent the afternoon touring some of the 100 acres. More than 150 varieties of vegetables and berries are grown using organic standards, natural fertilizers and manual weeding. Farmers must develop creative approaches to replace the use of chemical fertilizers and insecticides. (However, the term “organic” is unofficial without State certification.)

Those sweet, juicy strawberries that we savored in June have a history. They are a highly vulnerable crop and exemplify the challenges of sustainable farming. An entire field can be lost overnight if insects attack the plants or if the flowers are exposed to a late spring chill. Kwang and Nevia have developed an approach that works for them.  

Before planting the strawberries a large amount of natural compost is incorporated into the soil to enhance its quality. Irrigation tapes are laid beneath the surface of the field, then it’s topped with dry bark. The bark keeps the surface dry and discourages insects. Any time frost or hail are predicted, row covers (large expanses of a fabric that resembles heavy-duty cheesecloth) must be laid on top of the plants and anchored in some way. As soon as the threat is over, it’s removed. Again and again. All of this just for strawberries when there are 149 more crops to grow.